The Outsider: The Known Knowns

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)
Swellnet Dispatch

There are known knowns. These are things we know that we know. There are known unknowns. That is to say, there are things that we know we don't know. But there are also unknown unknowns. There are things we don't know we don't know. -Donald Rumsfeld

With the chaff blown away in the stiff Southern Ocean breeze and the sweet/sour briny smell of seaweed in the nostrils we are now whittled down to the pointy end of this, at times, epic contest. It is high time we bought a surgeons eye and scalpel to the contenders. We will use the latest in scientific methods as well as more intuitive methods of investigation, so please, if psycho-spiritual mumbo-jumbo offends please adjust your dial now.

Still here? Good, lets get on with the break down.

Bells this morning offered an offshore, tricky, shifting line-up with a variety of wave types and speeds. Turn placement, timing and entry/exit angle were critical and few of the Round 4 surfers mastered it.

Joel's attack sent me into paroxysms of joy. At high speed, on rail, no-one looks as good on a surfboard. His destiny is now intertwined with the vicissitudes of the Bells Bowl. Parko tragics still harbour deep wounding from the 2006 final, when Slater did a number on him in perfect six foot Bells. Fatigue was the cause of that defeat. Parko's victory in Round 4 ensures a well-spaced run to the final, if the Gods are smiling tomorrow.

Slater's attack revealed equipment limitations, a tendency to slide the second half of the turn at max speed and leverage. That might be a winning strategy in junk but in overhead Bells Bowl it is fakery and ju-ju. We must speak with a common voice here fellow surf junkies: the correct Bells line requires the rail to be held through the turn. Judges will have clear distinctions during tomorrow's finals run.

Fanning's opener didn't score but it revealed with startling clarity his modus operandi. We refer to the high hook layback in the lip. At lower speeds and in the middle of the wave face this is a plebeian turn, but executed at speed in the lip, like Andy used to, it gives the surfer the imprimatur of total authority. Fanning unleashed it on his next wave, which was adjudged a ten by 3 of the judges. The three sane ones I might add. It was perfection, the best surfed wave this year on the ASP Tour.

What of Jordy? Bad timing, incorrect reads, frustrated body language, dazzling moments of brute force, last minute victories shrouded in controversy. We haven't seen Jordy on point this year. I asked him how his title campaign was travelling, considering the unemphatic victories. His terse reply, "Ask me come Hawaii."

These are the known knowns.

A quick scientific digression, as promised. Where does it come from, this thing called style. And lets make sure we are absolutely clear here. Despite the judging criteria we are looking at a contest of style. Deep in the brain lies the limbic system (stick with me here, this is uncharted territory for surf journalism). This limbic system is the most primitive part of the brain, responsible for translating emotions into memory. The strongest emotions are the ones activated by the pleasure centre (the nucleus accumbens, thanks for asking) and they become our strongest memories and muscle memory map.

For Parko, for Fanning: this ancient muscle/emotional memory map is tied to perfect golden light afternoons on pointbreaks, the board flowing down effortlessly with the trim line, the attack cutting deep into those trim lines.

We can still see the imprint of Sebastian Inlet in the surfing of Slater: the fully flared top turn carve to slide.

In Jadson: we see the relentless searching for speed and launchpads of the Brazilian beachbreaks. Adriano too, although he has worked mightily hard to adapt his surfing to the dominant paradigm.

Our point: this thing called style is deeply ingrained in the most primitive/unconscious parts of the brain. It is very resistant to change.

This is the unknown unknown.

What is the outlook for tomorrow sports fans?

Kelly already has a keeper result. He has identified Parko as the main threat. How did he do this? Via the mechanism of the web-cast when asked about his heat against Stu Kennedy he replied, "Parko has been having great heats, I've been having bad ones. I'd rather have the bad ones now and the good ones later."

The germ cell of this idea, is to incubate the mental pre-conditions whereby Parko might be thrown off rhythm and somewhere in the back of his mind will be that thought 'Fuck, I'm having my bad heat now'.

I'm sure this is all unconscious from Kelly. It's somewhere deep down in his limbic system tied in with the pleasure principle/sexual arousal centre. He has learnt power and manipulation on a grand and subtle scale and it will take something approaching a miracle for Parkinson or Fanning to resurrect hope for the rest of the tour on Easter Sunday.

PS: Your correspondent regrets he does not have a more comprehensive coverage of the womens surfing today. An uncontrollable urge to surf 3-5 foot oily Winkipop overcame him. He can report the following salient facts from direct observation. Steph Gilmore continues to struggle to regain the aura of a World Champ....she was soundly comboed by Sally Fitzgibbons the eventual winner. Sally has some stylistic glitches to overcome, but she laid rail in the steep sections and rode a wave of strong emotional support from the crowd to come home a convincing winner. It was entertaining to watch; as womens surfing will continue to be in the future.

The Outsider: Ladies and Gentleman, we are floating in space The Outsider: The Great Rock 'n Roll Swindle The Outsider: Show Me Your War Face Soldier The Outsider: Remembrance of Things Past The Outsider: Prologue

(Photos By Steve Arklay)

Comments

jackaandtheflyingsaucers's picture
jackaandtheflyingsaucers's picture
jackaandtheflyi... Saturday, 23 Apr 2011 at 9:59am

There's a hole in your psycho jumbo article, how can you know what the unknown unknown is? Awesome read with the memory map descriptions of the remaining dudes.

rangoon's picture
rangoon's picture
rangoon Saturday, 23 Apr 2011 at 11:30am

You borrowed Eugene's tradie belt for this one.
great read Outsider.

hambone's picture
hambone's picture
hambone Saturday, 23 Apr 2011 at 11:40am

Yep great read. Re: "I'm sure this is all unconscious from Kelly. It's somewhere deep down in his limbic system tied in with the pleasure principle/sexual arousal centre. He has learnt power and manipulation on a grand and subtle scale..." Yes, you have Kelly's winning psychology wired there. Great observation. I'm sure it's not healthy for him. Would rather be Parko. Also, I noticed Mick was far more aggressive today - perhaps your stern talk to him had the desired affect?

boxright's picture
boxright's picture
boxright Sunday, 24 Apr 2011 at 7:56am

Fucken hurry up and put your blog up i've got shit to say. That was an EPIC day of surfing!! It'll stand up as long as Occy v Curren I reckon, just a bullshit display of rail surfing from Mick and Parko. Hurry up and put your blog up.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 24 Apr 2011 at 8:17am

Totally agree

rockreilly's picture
rockreilly's picture
rockreilly Sunday, 24 Apr 2011 at 9:15am

Great article Steve

Spot on observations of yesterday after today's final result.
Looking forward to your final article on Bells 2011.
May you only from know on ride the 'big tin bird' when traveling interstate.
Good luck to the blasphemous old school surf journo's and associates who down-talk your skill and prose.
In my eyes surf journalism know has a new king 'Steve Shearer'.

Da Rock

rockreilly's picture
rockreilly's picture
rockreilly Sunday, 24 Apr 2011 at 11:46am

Spot on observations of yesterday after today's final result.

Looking forward to your final article on Bells 2011.

May you only from know on ride the 'big tin bird' when traveling interstate.

Good luck to the blasphemous old school surf journo's and associates who down-talk your skill and prose.

In my eyes surf journalism has a new king 'Steve Shearer'.

merkin's picture
merkin's picture
merkin Sunday, 24 Apr 2011 at 10:34pm

Looks like my limbo mucsle memory must be hardwired for one foot onshore slop. Bummer.

Anyway Stu I reckon Mr Freeride deserves a stretch limo ride home...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 24 Apr 2011 at 10:47pm

Actually, we managed to get him a seat on the Greyhound with a foot rest (there's only four of 'em, and they're up the front). It was an extra $7.50 but I'm sure his weary soles will be most grateful.

more's picture
more's picture
more Sunday, 24 Apr 2011 at 11:15pm

good read..... and think we all have traits of our breaks and the ways needed to surf it hidden within our style of surfing, sometimes it is a good thing, sometimes it is not...was very surprised to see some poor board choices at Bells, KS was the most obvious and most difficult for me to understand considering board knowledge and abilty and experience, proves he is still human or was trying to gain an edge with diff equipment but he also looked like he wasnt in the usual KS focussed and totally confidnet zone with a minute of trying to focus on the shoreling before his heat with Adriano, never seen him do that before ....One of the Hobgoods seemed to make a poor choice of equipment too, no flow or drive thru turns, seemed to short and definitely had wrong rocker for the waves, bizzare at this level...good to see the cheers of Parko and SS on the Fuel coverage,( beer in one had, camera in the other,the perks sometimes overide the lack of financial gain for some and I smiled hard as I can relate well haha...) great to see a Qlder win another Bell, especially one from the Sunny Coast with so much ability and the most talented surfer to not win a title yet.....

alex-leonard's picture
alex-leonard's picture
alex-leonard Monday, 25 Apr 2011 at 8:35am

write an article all about style steve go on, this was something but also nothing.

alex-leonard's picture
alex-leonard's picture
alex-leonard Monday, 25 Apr 2011 at 8:37am

bury your face in that "unknown unknown" of yours and give it a licking to remember.

batfink_and_karate's picture
batfink_and_karate's picture
batfink_and_karate Monday, 25 Apr 2011 at 11:47am

Nice as usual SS.

But don't talk to Nick Carroll about style. He doesn't quite get it.

seal's picture
seal's picture
seal Tuesday, 26 Apr 2011 at 4:19am

Steve, enjoyed your writing but a little dissapointed that you thought the girls wern't as important as a surf was.You are starting to look a bit like a sterotypical chauvanist with your reports on the girls part of the comps. I hope they will be worthy of some more time spent writing if you do another comp where they are included, after all, they are the best in the world and starting to rip the bag out it better than most of the blokes that read this stuff. Apart from that well done to you, Parko and especially Sally Fitz!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 26 Apr 2011 at 7:04am

Seal, I would love to cover a womens event as a stand alone sporting event.

It's hard to cover the two concurrently.....but no excuses.