Hawaii's Winter Season Gets An Early Start

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Analysis

In the North Pacific, El Niño years are synonymous with pumping North Shore winters. There's a good track record of El Niño seasons with big wave highlight moments. Think 1969 and Greg Noll's Makaha send off, all that happened during the '86 Billabong Pro, 98's Biggest Wednesday, or even the 2016 Peahi Challenge which opened with Greg Long pulling into that barrel - each one an El Niño year.

But single swells are one thing, a whole pumping season is another. Yet as weather knowledge progresses, it's becoming clearer that putting in a couple of months during an El Niño year should have you at Ground Zero for a number of XXL events; arguably more than an average season.

With El Niño already established, anticipation is building about how the coming season will unfold. "I've heard it said again and again," said Bill Sharp during a recent chat with Swellnet, "the perception is there that this will be a good season."

Next week, Craig will publish a more in-depth article about El Niño and the North Pacific (hint: not all El Niño are created equal) yet right now the signs point to well-placed assumptions.

Though only halfway through October - the Hawaiian winter still six weeks yonder - guns will be getting an early dust off as the first real swell is inbound.

The foundation for the coming swell is Super Typhoon Bolaven which is currently positioned south-southeast of Japan. Bolaven is a Category 5 system and is forecast to re-curve to the north-east on approach to Japan before being absorbed into the North Pacific Jet-stream. This will give it a boost on its arc north of Hawaii, expanding in scope and intensity.

After being absorbed into the North Pacific Jet-stream, Ex-Super Typhoon Bolaven reintensifies and sends north-west swell towards Hawaii

Core wind speeds are due to reach storm-force, although a little too late in Hawaii's swell window to generate an XXL swell. It'll make landfall next Tuesday night, angled just marginally north of north-west (320°), peaking Wednesday morning before tapering over the next two days.

Size? 12 - 15 feet early Wednesday, so think lower end Waimea, upper end Sunset and Pipeline, before it settles through Wednesday and Thursday. Perhaps best of all it makes landfall during a particularly slack period of north-east trades - great direction, light wind speeds. With land temps forecast around 30° it'll be sultry and smooth.

Though it bodes well for an active North Pacific surf season, one swell does not a great season make. Though it sure raises the excitement levels.

Stay tuned for Craig's article next week.

Comments

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 11:34am

Bolaven is a beauty!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 11:42am

Nice to get an October gender bender.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 12:15pm

What a cracker. I imagine west coast mainlanders might have their eye on it too?

Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 4:50pm

This last 4 weeks...
Buoys have already read 12 feet , 18 feet , 16 feet, and a bunch of other long period mid size swell with 18 second period. The swell train has already started

fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21 Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 1:47pm

Early clearing of sand at Pipe?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 1:50pm

Possibly, though ain't as west as a lot of big early season swells are.

Faunt Leroy's picture
Faunt Leroy's picture
Faunt Leroy Monday, 16 Oct 2023 at 11:17am

I thought most big early swells are North?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 16 Oct 2023 at 11:53am

I guess it's sporadic, but generally west swells are earlier in the season, especially those that result from typhoons in the Western Pacific basin through the September October peak.

Faunt Leroy's picture
Faunt Leroy's picture
Faunt Leroy Monday, 16 Oct 2023 at 11:59am

I guess I was thinking the Honolua Bay early North swells and Sunset early North swells.

ryder's picture
ryder's picture
ryder Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 3:40pm

Fun sized H-Bay on Maui...

pigdog's picture
pigdog's picture
pigdog Saturday, 14 Oct 2023 at 12:16pm

def bucket list ryder

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 4:38pm

Should we also assume that Japan and North America/Canada are likely to have a cracker snow season this coming winter also?

Roystein's picture
Roystein's picture
Roystein Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 5:45pm

I’m heading in Jan don and so lurking the ski.com forums, no real clear consensus that El Niño is bumper snow. If anything points to slightly below average, which surprises me as I thought the same thing as you.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 10:42pm

yes below average snowfall. 11-13m.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 6:49pm

All will be revealed next week.

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 8:43pm

It's like waiting for bloody Santa Craig!!

Chris Buykx's picture
Chris Buykx's picture
Chris Buykx Saturday, 14 Oct 2023 at 1:50pm

Craig can you give some consideration as to effects on upcoming PNG season. How are N Pacific Trade winds affected and what this means for the ENE trade swells in PNG.

Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 4:53pm

Hawaii cleaning the sand from the engine next week ......

Stanlee's picture
Stanlee's picture
Stanlee Friday, 13 Oct 2023 at 5:06pm

nice clean long period swell hit japan this morning 4-5 ft offhsores all morning
Next 2 days are looking really good as the swell fills in more over night with offshore winds forecast

Yendor's picture
Yendor's picture
Yendor Saturday, 14 Oct 2023 at 8:51am

Looked like Japan would get some cracking swell off that system and great its far enough off with favourable winds. Are you based there? Which area?

Thegrowingtrend.com's picture
Thegrowingtrend.com's picture
Thegrowingtrend.com Saturday, 14 Oct 2023 at 12:07am

We want the juicy goods Craig. Where’s the left runners

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Saturday, 14 Oct 2023 at 12:28pm

I was in northern California during June-October at the end of '97 from memory. It was the start of an el Nino and all the locals were frothing about how warm the water was and the expected swells. It really kicked into gear around mid September with a solid w swell. Then until I left mid October it pumped pretty much non stop. 2 proper 20'+ mavs swells, and a whole bunch of other swells. That was the year Taylor Knox won the K2 big wave challenge at todos. Not sure if it was one of the early swells or later in the season. Be interesting to see how this one stacks up, but it's obviously not up to the blistering start that season had.

Nik Zanella's picture
Nik Zanella's picture
Nik Zanella Monday, 16 Oct 2023 at 9:23am

Stu, as you know. I live in Hainan island in the South China Sea. Our winter surf depends on the NE monsoon triggered by the big pressure gradient between the china northern plains (cold high pressure) and the subtropical warm (low pressure) southern areas. I’ve been looking online for sources on how El Niño will affect wind, waves here but I can’t find anything.. any hints?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 16 Oct 2023 at 4:13pm

Hey Nik,

I'm not surprised there's little around to read as we're really at the leading edge of understanding what EN does and how it influences global weather. Being so reliant on weather, surfers are helping to drag that knowledge out of scientific forums and into common use.

I can't help you with the reading, however I'll ask Craig, who's our font of all El Nino knowledge.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 16 Oct 2023 at 4:20pm

Yeah, I'll have a look for you Nik.

Nik Zanella's picture
Nik Zanella's picture
Nik Zanella Wednesday, 18 Oct 2023 at 9:21am

That would be great thanks!

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 17 Oct 2023 at 9:04am

Shot from Comsat Hill by John Bilderback:

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 17 Oct 2023 at 9:06am

Backyards looks good in that shot.

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Wednesday, 18 Oct 2023 at 8:25am

Big and building to XL on Nth Shore this morning.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 18 Oct 2023 at 8:30am

The odd 2nd reef pipe wash through and so much sand.

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Wednesday, 18 Oct 2023 at 10:36am

haha yep. Big perfect closeouts! Looks treacherous.
The massive sets look inconsistent but when they come looks like they're gouging some gutters out of that big sand berm on the beach. Sand might be gone in a few hours.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 19 Oct 2023 at 8:53am

Jaws yesterday.

Kemper:

Layer:

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Thursday, 19 Oct 2023 at 9:09am

Wow! Imagine going from it being flat all summer straight into that kind of size swell.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 19 Oct 2023 at 12:04pm

Was that Koa hanging on by his toenails? Crazy. The Koa/Nate/JOB videos from today should be a good watch.

(*Awww message received.)