Workable, mediocre swells this week with more juice still on the radar (hopefully)

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon Jan 1st)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Workable E/SE swell Mon-Wed with E tending SE winds (more E-E/NE on the MNC)
  • Building short range S-S/SE swells Fri
  • Trick weekend outlook, likely small SE swells continue
  • Tricky outlook continues into next week with SE swells possible and a larger S-S/SE swell later next week if low forms off Tasmania
  • Check back Wed for latest updates and revisions

Recap

Not a noteworthy weekend to see out 2023- Sat saw some small leftover E and S swell to 2ft with clean morning conditions under variable winds offering up a grovel for the keen. There was a small increase in S swell Sun (only really showing in NENSW) which offered up some more 1-2ft surf with clean conditions before winds freshened from the SE during the a’noon.   Onshore SE-E to bring in 2024 with small but building E-E/SE swells to 2-3ft for the keen beans ready to get off the mark for the New Year. Happy New year all.

Wasn't quite pumping New Years Eve- didn't stop people paddling out for a go

This week (Jan 1-5)

We’ve got a moderate strength high pressure cell (1025hPa) in the Tasman, connected to a high pressure belt under the continent, directing NE winds in Central/Southern NSW, more E-SE in the sub-tropics where a broad troughy area is directing a stronger onshore flow and whipping up local swells from that direction. 

We should see building swells from the E/SE ahead for the short run in the f/cast region. Mod/fresh SE-E/SE winds through Tues , tending more S/SE-SE Wed across the Northern parts of the region(more E-E/NE south of Yamba) with lighter SW-S winds inshore early, more likely Wed. Surf should hold in the 2-3ft range Tues, bigger 3ft in NENSW where the fetch is more directly aimed, with a small bump in size Wed to 3ft across the region. Small point surf and a few options at semi-protected beachies will be on offer. 

We’ll see a change Thurs as a trough pushes E of Tasmania and a front passes below the Island state. Expect a NW tending NE flow through the morning (more SE north of the border) before the trough brings a vigorous S tending S/SE flow to the MNC during the late a’noon. Small fun 2ft surf through Thurs from the E.

Building short range S-S/SE swells through Fri across the MNC to North Coast, possibly just reaching SEQLD late in the day depending on the timing of the change , with mod/fresh winds from the same direction. Expect 2ft surf through SEQLD, with surf building in the a’noon across the MNC to North Coast to 3ft - possibly 3-4ft south of Yamba- by close of play. Some of this increase may just sneak north of the border, but we’ll fine tune that on Wed. 

This weekend (Jan 6-7)

Models are offering divergent scenarios leading into this weekend with EC suggesting the trough in the Tasman will deepen and move north into the Central/Northern Tasman, possibly as a closed surface low. Which would see moderate S/SE tending SE swells over the weekend under a S’ly tending SE flow across the weekend.

GFS has a much more subdued take with the trough dissipating and a weaker onshore flow. Under this scenario we’d see small swells from the SE to 2ft Sat, easing during the day and smaller leftovers Sun to 1-2ft.

Neither scenario is too froth-worthy at this stage although EC has certainly got more size and juice but we’ll see how it looks Wed. There’ll be a rideable wave of some description. 

Next week (Jan 8 onwards)

Model variance continues into next week so confidence is low on the outlook. EC maintains the trough and supporting high pressure in the Tasman, with workable SE swells and SE winds through Mon. It suggests a slow Southwards movement of the trough with winds shifting more S/SE from Tues and workable swells tending more S/SE in this period. 

GFS suggests a more typical high pressure in the Tasman and E tending NE flow through Mon and Tues with a new trough deepening off the Tasmanian or Gippsland Coast Tues bringing a stiff S’ly change late Tues or o/night into Wed.

A deep low is then expected to form (under this scenario) with gales off Tasmania into Wed and new S swell propagating northwards during late Wed or Thurs, potentially with some real size to it.

We’ll flag these scenarios for now and see how they look on Wed. We are due for a more substantial Tasman Sea swell after a fairly lacklustre period.

Check back Wed for the latest. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 1:22pm

Upper Springbrook recorded 389mm in the 24 hours to 9am.

Bald Mountain (just west of Murwillumbah) recorded 307mm in the 24 hours to 9am, and it's received another 90mm in the four hours since.

Crazy days.

-frothmonster-'s picture
-frothmonster-'s picture
-frothmonster- Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 2:43pm

they must be super isolated downpours - nothing in Byron at all!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 2:45pm

Yep, very localised (also heaviest falls in the hinterland due to orographic lift).

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 5:27pm

Incredibly localized. 17mls only here at Bilambil last 24 hours, Tonnes of brown exiting the Tweed Bar right now, must be all way upstream

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 4:32pm

Moderate flooding at Tumbulgum.

Major flooding at Clagiraba Rd, Coomera.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 6:11pm

I drove through Coomera today. There was water everywhere.

The grouch's picture
The grouch's picture
The grouch Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 5:50pm

Hard to predict lately.
Wind gusts DI this morning to 40 knots. Heavy rain.
Be careful going fishing offshore .

Matilda0213's picture
Matilda0213's picture
Matilda0213 Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 6:13pm

This is one wet El Nino

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 1 Jan 2024 at 6:15pm

We've had barely enough to wet the gauge since Xmas despite the huge storm bands everywhere.
The hot spell of multiple days of 30-35 degrees and max UV has completely nuked the garden.

Hard to believe BOM still has a severe weather warning current for this area for heavy rainfall.

Anyhow, that local windswell from winds feeding into the trough has reached some size this a'noon (at least 3-4ft) although it's very unappealing with the straight onshore wind.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 6:26am

Some Vile Water coming out of the Tweed...Those 3 Guys out at Dbah are you that Desperate !

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 7:15am

Numinbah's recorded 531mm in the last two days; Bald Mountain's picked up 530mm (both out behind Murwillumbah).

My local rain gauge is 30km away, and recorded 12mm over the same time period.

Upper Springbrook picked up 566mm as well.

mr mick's picture
mr mick's picture
mr mick Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 7:30am

We’re halfway between Murwillumbah & Cabarita …45 mm

Ardy's picture
Ardy's picture
Ardy Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 7:45am

103 mm in my rain gauge from yesterday morning & 60 mm day before , I’m mt Coolum , raining still this morning

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 7:50am

Not even a mm in mine.
Can't believe we didn't even get tipped by a storm or get a coastal shower in the onshore flow.

Ardy's picture
Ardy's picture
Ardy Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 8:46am

We’ve been missed so much of late, rain wise it’s finally our turn

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 11:42am

Pissing down on the sunny coast for the last 12 hours and lots more on the radar... Had a reasonably fun surf though when there was little wind or people

GreenJam's picture
GreenJam's picture
GreenJam Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 12:04pm

Yes Ardy, and the hinterland is getting a good dose too.
69mm in the gauge Sunday morning - Saturday was a wildish day weather wise. That was the best single drop all year. Previous was 50mm just a few days earlier. So December (and November with all the storm activity) really helped improve a very dry year here - 2023 year total 821 (December had 239, November 115). Steady rain as a type. Landscape has transformed from dry and stressed a bit over a month or so ago to lush and vibrant

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 6:36pm

Similar story for the Sunshine Coast hinterland. Was as dry as 2019 back in the middle of November, Can hardly tell that had been the case now.

joesydney's picture
joesydney's picture
joesydney Tuesday, 2 Jan 2024 at 7:46pm

Drove the TVW across from Pottsville, torrential in Murwillimbah and then nothing by the time I was back at the coast

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 3 Jan 2024 at 7:49am

Superbank is slowly rebounding.




How's that brown water though?

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Wednesday, 3 Jan 2024 at 9:44am

Dolphins putting on an epic show this morning working the brown water line off Rainbow

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 3 Jan 2024 at 7:31pm

Yeah! Greeny cam around 6:40am had some action.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 3 Jan 2024 at 7:30pm

Water temps were absurdly warm this arvo. Unpleasant even, in a long sleeved vest with boardies. Warm water wax was sliding off the deck.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 3 Jan 2024 at 10:41pm

I’m liking the sound of that. Finally!!