Mix of long period S swell and some swell from TC Mal

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Wed 15th Nov)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • N’lies Thurs with a late S’ly change 
  • Long period S swells peak later Wed/Thurs, favouring NENSW for size
  • Increase in short range S swell for Fri, lingering into Sat
  • Some swell now expected from TC Mal as it moves across the swell window- Sat and Sun will see some sets under light winds
  • Another long period S swell pulse Mon, easing Tues with E’ly winds
  • Blocking pattern next week with E’ly winds and developing E’ly swells

Recap

Fun tradewind swell to 2-3ft yesterday with light winds which tended fresh N’ly through the day. N’ly winds again today with easing trade swell to 2ft and some small S swell to 2-3ft at S facing beaches in NENSW. 

Some small S swell on the MNC under a light N'ly flow

This week (Nov 15-17)

A troughy pattern spawns a compact Tasman low in the short term with S’ly groundswell making it’s way up the Tasman Pipe. Another deep low is expected to bomb under the continent and send more long period groundswell our way late this weekend under a continuing unstable, trough pattern. 

In the short run we’ll see N’ly winds tomorrow, light inshore early. S’ly groundswell from the trailing fetch (shorter period swell trains than today) supplies some 4ft sets at S facing beaches in NENSW with some developing NE windswell to 2ft through the day. A northwards moving trough brings a SW-S change to the MNC in there a’noon, reaching Tweed-Byron late in the day.

S’ly winds then freshen Fri as a front pushes through and a small low off the MNC deepens and moves offshore. There’ll be some building short range S swell up into 3-4ft range at S facing beaches in the a’noon but low quality. Smaller, cleaner waves in protected corners and Bays. 

This weekend (Nov 18-19)

We’re still expecting SW morning winds tending S’ly then SE-E/SE’ly on Sat as a small high centre moves offshore from the Central NSW Coast and the low off the MNC moves into the Tasman. An off-axis fetch in the Tasman and the remnants of Fridays short range S swell will see a small blend of S swells to 2-3ft at S facing beaches,  biggest and best early before an easing trend sets in. TC Mal enters the swell window later today and we may see some small E/NE swell Sat. The TC moves at angles to the swell window which is not good for swell production but there are winds to 60kts as it enters the swell window o/night so we can expect some bigger 4ft sets with rogue 5ft sets a real possibility. 

That swell will be easing from Sun morning with a few sets to 3-4ft quickly easing through the day and some small SE swell to 2-3ft.

Sunday sees another long period S swell pulse possibly just reaching the MNC late in the day. That will see sets to 3-5ft at S facing beaches.

Winds look iffy for Sun with a straight E’ly flow expected into a trough.

Next week (Nov 20 onwards)

A mix of swells Mon, with large easing sets from the S to 4-5ft at S facing beaches in NENSW, smaller 2-3ft at S swell magnets in SEQLD.  We’ll see building E swells to 3ft as winds feed into a trough with the trough bringing a S’ly change.

That trough may form a small low with some developing SE swell possible through Tues into mid/late next week. We’ll see how models look on Fri but this continuing troughy outlook for the Tasman Sea is likely to maintain an active period for surf, even if onshore winds become a little persistent.

Check back Fri and we’ll see how it’s shaping up.

Comments

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 15 Nov 2023 at 5:10pm

She’s a compact fetch moving across the great circle paths. 5ft sets is a big call. Shame local winds look average (especially GFS). GFS model also being the most bullish in terms of swell development too.

geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford Wednesday, 15 Nov 2023 at 8:35pm

Great, detailed forecast as always Steve! Quick question - do you think we should get that SW flow up here on the Sunny Coast on Saturday?

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Thursday, 16 Nov 2023 at 1:28pm

Local contest called on Sunday off due to sharks in line up. @ My local a shark breached next to lone surfer in the line up almost landing on top of him (2 days ago). Forecast looks good/ Ok but it's getting to the point where is it worth it around here considering the amount of sharks hanging around in our line ups? If TC Mal does ramp up some swell (& it looks a long way out) lets see if we can avoid the Noahs to get a few waves.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Thursday, 16 Nov 2023 at 5:14pm

Roughly where are you based Groovie ?
I'm near Byron, haven't heard of too many run-ins recently up here

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Thursday, 16 Nov 2023 at 8:56pm

Just say where ‘here’ is or keep the shark talk to yourself.

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Friday, 17 Nov 2023 at 11:43am

Forster mate, highest # of Pings on the shark detectors is @ main Beach in NSW (Shark Smart Map)

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Saturday, 18 Nov 2023 at 5:22am

Was just up there, but have to say I couldn’t quite work out where was the best surfing option there, although I’ll hazard a guess. Wasn’t replete with quality surfing options nearby.

I did enjoy the ocean swims on Main Beach though, but stuck pretty close to the shore. No deep water swimming for me there, but others didn’t seem to mind doing that. Always concerning if you’re paddling around near any river/lake outlet.

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Friday, 17 Nov 2023 at 11:43am

Forster mate, highest # of Pings on the shark detectors is @ main Beach in NSW (Shark Smart Map)

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Friday, 17 Nov 2023 at 11:52am

Beautiful area. They have a few SMART drumlines all around that area and correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think there has been a shark attack since?

Unlike lighthouse beach up the road at Port. That's a sharky spot!

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Thursday, 16 Nov 2023 at 6:56pm

How good are the Fiji Met synoptics! They get the froth on. If I saw one of those in the newspaper back in the day I'd be calling 6ft and offshore for the weekend.
https://www.met.gov.fj/index.php?page=maps#12AM2023.11.16%2003.09.18.jpg

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 16 Nov 2023 at 9:46pm

Looks like ascat missed the fetch too.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 17 Nov 2023 at 9:53am

Very tricky little system, very strong winds when it first came into the swell window.
But he moved quickly.
More likely a few random 4ft sets.