Swellnet Dispatch Dan Thomson: Waking to a better shape

In: Swellnet Dispatch by Stu Nettle 18 Comments Tue 21st Aug '12

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Recently Swellnet ran a Wave of the Day sequence featuring Adam Robertson blowing the top off a Winkipop lip. Although it was a hi-fi move the equipment under Robbo's hooves was what got everyone's attention. Short, blunt and wide, Robbo's board was more wakeboard than surfboard, and a short investigation sourced it to the shaping bay of Dan Thomson.

Dan, from Lennox Head, has been operating on a shaping tip lately, putting out surfboards unlike anything yet seen in surfing. He's taken ideas from the Bob Simmons strain of thought and mixed them in with more modern concepts while adding a dash of his own knowledge. The outcome being something that can legitimately be called original.

Besides Robbo, Stu Kennedy has been riding Dan's creations and even packed a few into his boardbag for the North American and European legs of the World Qualifying Series. They've served him well with a 9th in the Relentless Boardmasters at Newquay, a 17th at the US Open of Surfing, and a 37th at the Mr Price Pro. He's also received a bit of attention from one of the most influential people in surfing.

Swellnet recently spoke to Dan about his boards.

On design deviations There is nothing that has been stumbled upon with my designs. They're a result of about eight years of direct intent to take high performance design to the next level. They utilise a specific design lineage of hydrodynamic planing hulls and parallel rail lines originating from Bob Simmons and similar design traditions like the Lis Fish and Greenough Spoon.

Up front The diamond nose maintains the pointed 'centre of effort' required for predictable directional control while completely eliminating swing weight. Continuing the rail line right to the tip of the nose allows the design to be ridden smaller.

Down back Most of my tail designs are specifically designed for adding control to the wider tail block without inducing too much drag. I have studied a lot of aviation design to gain more understanding of fluid-dynamics. The nose and tail features of Robbo's and Stu's boards are totally functional.

On top level testimonials Former Australian Junior Champ, Stu Kennedy, has been really psyched on this design direction - he gets it! Smaller, faster boards that don't compromise control allow for much more radical manoeuvres and aerial rotations.

On the wakeboard comparison The wakeboard aesthetic isn't something I planned, it just evolved that way. But once I made the connection, I thought, 'Well that makes a lot of sense actually, they're riding water like we are.' Then I started watching some high level wakeboarding. Their aerial repertoire is way more advanced, which is not to say that aerial surfing is lagging, what guys such as John John and Medina are doing is mental, but I cant help but wonder what they could be doing on a wakeboard built for surfing.

Disadvantages? The best thing is there is nothing really compromised with these boards: they've got more drive, they can power hack using the added edge, and they ride like tow boards in bigger waves because they're narrow. They even paddle really well because the volume is basically the same as a traditional shortboard packed into a more economic scale and stable rectangular plane shape. Just about anyone can ride them and experience high levels of personal performance right away. No snake oil bullshit.

On changing surfer's opinions The biggest hurdle is for the surfing community at large to let go of our obsession with pointed noses. Firstly, they are dangerous, surfing is more fun with a blunt nose, and the rider is more comfortable pushing his or her performance level. Secondly, less swing weight equals faster and tighter turns - airs too, for those interested - and reducing the rate of pearling because the board fits better into the curve of the wave.

Greenough understands this and speaks pretty openly about it. Curren has been super stoked judging by the feedback to the boards I've made for him and Kelly has been really cool to recently credit my work ("I think that's the future to be honest," Kelly Slater, timecode 2:30 min).

Check Dan's website and blog for more information.
First three photos of Adam Robertson by Elliot Gray. 

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